I make words come alive

Links to more of my words online.

Music is my drug of choice

I can't live without music.

Photos

I'm far from a pro, but I love taking photos.

I vlog

Have a look at my videos. My accent gets all sorts of messed up on them.

Friday Poll

What's the next Friday Poll? Not sure. Read about the past ones as you wait.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

flashback SMASH

Reading my old diary from Japan this morning and remembered a couple things, one of them being that I saw dead people in Japan. Not like Obon ghosts, but people actually getting knocked off. My roommate Diane and I ended up having a tally in the kitchen of our apartment. We called the the Dead People List.

We saw so many deaths because Japan is so densely populated to start with? I'm not sure about that but I do know that I saw more dead bodies there than I saw anywhere else in the world where I traveled or lived - perhaps Varanasi maybe but that's dead people galore.

Here's part of the diary entry.

-- Tuesday 17/8/99 --
"Well you wanna see weird ass shit? I just officially saw my first dead body. Some poor bastard was squished flat by a train in Kadoma. Of course, this stupid friggin' gaijin decides to catch the train while the policemen (or whoever they were) were cleaning up the mess. Funny in a bizarre kind of way, using buckets and spades to scoop up the persons remains. Surreal experience."

from : http://www.panoramio.com/photo/31293533


















Yep. True.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

#ftw


love this

Found this via @aaronkeraneyaus who says "So apparently this guy is losing his job for this. Pffft! http://bit.ly/gmWx6q



wordless wednesday


Tuesday, April 5, 2011

april 5th, 1994

Today is the anniversary of Kurt Cobain's death. I wrote this last year and you might have read it already but I figured it was worth a repost:

All In All


She was uncomfortable in her swimsuit. She was an average girl but felt like the entire world was watching her whenever the layers were taken off. The boys didn't seem to mind but that was what bothered her the most.

She lay on her towel with her chest to the decking and wondered why she was suffering through yet another day at the pool. April was supposed to be warm, not hot. Summertime was supposed to have long passed and the reddish brown leaves of Autumn should have been out. Not this year. For some reason Summer was punishing her and making the heat drag on. Making the weekends at her friend's house continue.

All she wanted to do was go home and listen. Listen to him. She started to daydream of cardigans, dirty long hair, guitars and poetry but she was rudely interrupted.

"Why are we listening to this crap?" someone said.

She rolled her eyes and muttered something under her breath. The boys looked over, wondering how she was going to react to the comment.  She just glared back and silently dared them to to continue mocking the music. They wisely put their beers to their lips and took another sip instead.


She looked around her at her friends and realized that she wasn't going to get any peace next to the pool so she pushed herself up from the deck and made sure nothing fell out of her top. She stood up and casually removed the wedge from her butt. She wondered why it was that no matter which swimsuit she wore they always seemed to get stuck up her rear. Couldn't someone design something better? She remembered she was supposed to be sad so she snapped out of it and looked solemn again. She wrapped the towel around her waist, crossed her arms in front of her chest and walked past the boys laying on the deck to the patio.

They didn't say a word, just followed her with their eyes. She ignored them and headed to the shade next to her friend.

"Hi Toni. What's going on? You feeling any better?" Her friend asked her. She seemed to genuinely care.
"I'm OK, just in shock I guess. I can't believe its over."
"Too right."
Her friend handed her a beer and paused as if she was going to say something to her but then decided against it. Instead she gave her a hug, smiled and motioned to the radio.

"He's all yours."

She nodded and took a swig of her beer as yet another of his songs came on the radio. Close to tears she tightened her towel around her waist and wandered over to the table to get closer to the music and her cigarettes. She sat down and squinted out into the daylight while searching blindly for a lighter in her bag.

She listened.

"In the sun, in the sun we feel as one..." blared out from the stereo.

She sighed and then took a long, deep drag on her cigarette. She could feel it burn inside but she held it in as long as she could. She exhaled as he sang.

tuesday's truth

I can now also be called Aunty Susan.
Huge congrats to my brother Andrew and his amazing partner Lana on the birth of my niece Ella.

















Monday, April 4, 2011

double kashmir - parts viii and ix

This is part eight in a 10-part series.

We fell asleep to snow, woke up to snow and fell back asleep to snow again. The waking hours however were filled with allegations of child labor, Bill Clinton namedropping, carpets and the planning of escapes.
Day four in Kashmir was supposed to be the “city tour” day, but Bashir, complete with his neck brace and shitty attitude decided that because it was a Friday, a holy day, we would do nothing instead.
Um … no. As much as we enjoyed flying kites and playing carom and cricket with the kids hiding out on the houseboat, my husband Jay and I had paid for a city tour and we were going to get a city tour.
Unfortunately, the conditions of Kashmir prohibited tourists to go pretty much anywhere by themselves. We couldn’t just up and go give ourselves a city tour. Bashir or Saleem had to take us.
We approached Bashir on the subject. We expressed our desire to go. He expressed his desire to stay. We mentioned we already paid for the trip. He mentioned how he was an honest man and, after throwing in the word Allah every other sentence, he said we would return our $20.
As we waited to get our cash back, Bashir added that he wasn’t going to give us the money, but Shafi and Mana would when we all returned New Dehli.
Great. Honest man, indeed.
I returned to my chair on the houseboat a bit peeved. I’m not used to dedicated a day to nothing, but it’s not like we just sat there twiddling our thumbs. We played hide and seek with the touts on the lake for a bit. We read. We drank tea in the dainty cups with our pinkies raised—sans drugs. We quietly and very seriously discussed goat sacrifices.
Eid ul Adha (known as “Festival of Sarifice”—an important religious holiday celebrated by Muslims worldwide to commemorate the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael as an act of obedience to God) was three days away and we were going witness the slaughtering of goats.
The combination of that, Bashir, checkpoints, machine guns, soldiers, drugs and seeing how the people were living had taken a toll on us. Jay and I were tired, pissed off and, to be frank, over the place. We wanted to get back to India where there was a lot less risk.
We busted out the guide book and started looking for a way out. Flipping through the guide, we learned we could take a bus back to India that left Srinagar daily. Jay and I planned to take the bus on Sunday, the day before the sacrificing festival. As we sat together circling times and pick-up points, Bashir appeared out of nowhere and announced a change of plans:
“We go to visit my cousin’s carpet shop.” He said. “No children work here. We do not use child labor. You can very clearly see everyone working here is adult.”
I don’t know why he adamantly explained his cousin abiding by all labor laws, but I didn’t think much of it. Jay and I didn’t have much of a choice so we stood up and prepared to depart.
Bashir told us the owner of the business was Shafi’s father (the dude from New Delhi). He was incredibly proud of his carpets and, to be honest, he had every right to be. I would be proud, too. His carpets captivated your eyes and left you stunned. The colors, the textures and the details were just incredible.
Unlike every other purchasable item we’d been shown on the trip, these carpets made it harder to say no. How would we carry a carpet around the world with us? There was no way we could do it. He told us he would ship it anywhere in the world for us.
“Bill Clinton has one!” he excitedly told us. “I’ve shipped to Bill Clinton! Here see our photo!”
And yes, there he was; Bill Clinton with Shafi senior. Even though Bill Clinton bought a carpet, there was still a problem with shipping: Jay and I didn’t have an address. We were traveling around the world. We had no place to call home yet. We left Japan via Australia and decided to travel the world before making out way to the U.S. We didn’t have jobs or an address.
“No” obviously wasn’t an answer Shafi senior found acceptable, so, to further entice us, he gave us a tour of his facility. He showed us big looms, dark rooms, and his employees working—most of whom looked to be about 13 years old. Surveying the youth working in appalling conditions, I came to the conclusion that he classified children as anyone under the age of 13.
Needless to say, the tour didn’t entice us into buying a carpet. If anything, it did the exact opposite.
Our carpet factory visit came to an end and the trip back to the houseboat was short and quiet. Jay and I needed to purchase our escape ticket back to India.
“Um, Bashir? We know we’re supposed to leave Monday, but we want to catch the bus on Sunday back to New Dehli.”
Silence. He sat perfectly still and stared ahead through the windscreen. It took a while but he slowly and awkwardly turned, looked at us over his neck brace and then looked to the sky.
“Mutter … mutter … grumble … mutter … Allah.”

(printed in the 8th edition of altSCV - http://altscv.com/downloads/altSCV_032711_web.pdf )





This is part nine in a 10-part series.
“See that building over there? That was bombed. And that one? Yes, bombed, too. That one, bombed. That one? No, that fell down from old age.”
Srinagar was once upon a time an amazing place with incredible gardens and forts. Royalty had vacationed there and looked at the Himalayas just like we were. Sadly, the city had turned into a war zone with soldiers stationed at every corner.
The never ending threat of suicide bomb attacks also made everyone anxious. My husband and I toured the city to get one last look at how the Kashmiri people were living and to buy some bus tickets to get out of there before the goat massacre commenced.
Bashir grumpily greeted us on the dock in the morning. Frigid was both the temperature as well as his demeanor. He grumbled something about buses and driving as he readjusted his neck brace. We crossed the lake in silence, jumped into the car and just sat.
We were quiet because we didn’t want to piss him off (a common feeling during our stay in Kashmir). If we did, we could be stuck on the houseboat for who knows how long.
Looking out the window as we drove along revealed a slightly different view of the city. For one thing, there were more women. Most wore phirams of varying colors with their heads covered in scarves. Others wore full length black burkas. It was incredible seeing them bustle through the streets, doing chores, praying and following the men.
I felt awkward wearing my Dorothy the Dinosaur beanie (as it was bright and drew unnecessary attention) while these women were focused on blending into the crowd. My mind started to wander as I imagined how different I would have been if I had grown up in Kashmir.
The women in Bashir’s family were highly intelligent—incredibly smart actually. Multi-lingual, well educated and perfectly happy with living freely indoors and covered outside. I enjoyed conversing with them and learned a lot about what it was like growing up Muslim. I couldn’t wrap my mind around how the teenage daughter was fine with being married off in a couple years. I bit my tongue. I wasn’t there to argue with her; I was there to listen.
“That building was bombed the day before you got here,” Bashir said as he pointed to a burnt out building and parked the car on the side of the road. I immediately snapped out of my daydream as I stepped out of the car. The place was a zoo with cars, people, horns, yelling and whatever else you can imagine. It was modern in parts with newer shops selling TVs, CDs and electronics, but also old and dilapidated in others.
Some buildings actually leaned to a side and looked as if they were going to fall on us as we walked past. Everything was for sale and everyone wanted to yell at us in broken English. We weren’t there for wool or CDs. We came into town for bus tickets and we weren’t leaving this bombed-out city until we held them in our hands.
“Can we go to the place to get the tickets please, Bashir?” I asked as he veered us towards yet another carpet store.
Grumble, grumble...
He went into some store, came out and handed us two tickets.
That was easy.
My husband Jay and I laughed that night as we relaxed in our drawing room and thought about the trip back to Delhi. It was only 876 kilometers away (544 miles for you Americans). We did some math and figured the trip would take about 14 hours if the bus was slow. Not too bad.
We’d survived near death experiences, druggings and being annoyed and scared, so a bus trip shouldn’t be a problem.
We boarded the bus the next morning, excited to get away before the animal sacrifices. This ride is going to be a breeze, I thought. I snuggled up next to Jay and made myself comfortable for a long ride. We even made friends with another tourist named Mike. He was a crazy Brit.
What Jay and I didn’t account for in our trip back were the sheer drops, the bus losing power to its headlights and it eventually breaking down in a shady town called Jammu.
No one ever wants to be in Jammu, especially not our new found friend Mike.
“Oh no!” He screamed. “We’re in freaking Jammu. Anywhere but Jammu!”
It appeared he’d read the same guidebook as us.


(printed in the ninth issue of altSCV , here - http://altscv.com/downloads/altSCV_040311_web.pdf)

music monday

Sunday, April 3, 2011

2011 Warrior Dash

When I was younger I was a scout. I loved it. I loved the dirt, the mud and everything else about it. I used to love doing commando courses at Jamborees and Hides. It was a highlight of the year and I have photos to show how much fun I had. I really miss the times I had as a scout as I have so many fond memories. I was actually a very active teen, I was a scout, and played interschool hockey, netball, and afterschool netball and ran cross country. Then something awful happened; my knees got messed up. I found out I had a disease in my knees that was aggravated by years of playing netball and cross country running. My knees are basically crap.  Yay for crap knees!

I've avoided running for a while now and I do other things instead of it. My thing, as you all know, is cycling. I love it. I can ride for hours. The thing I'm not very good at is jogging and running. In the past six months I have managed to get myself back into the shape I was in when I was doing kung fu, tai-chi and working out 5 days a week. No idea how I've done it but I have. I've also lost about 25 pounds so that's helped my knees a little, but they still swell and get messed up when I run. Again, yay for crap knees! I hate running and it usually it would take a lot for me to want to run. The idea of running in a lot of mud did it.

I saw the site for the Warrior Dash and I was sold. The idea of running in mud was so awesome that I didn't care about the eventual after pain. I called my husband the day the tickets went on sale and basically informed him we were running; luckily he agreed. Fire! Broken cars! Mud! Barbed wire! More Mud! Bring it on! I was all hyped, I was ready to go. I could do it!

Wait two months.....and I start to doubt.

On the day of the run I spent the whole two hour drive to Lake Elsinore from Santa Clarita second guessing myself. It went something like this:

My knees are shit.
I'm old. 
I'm not in as good a shape as the others. 
I'm going to hold you back. 
No really, my knees are shit. 
I don't want to be last.

It wasn't the pain I was afraid of, or the mud, or the potential injuries - I just didn't want to be last. I prayed I wasn't going to be last. I would run through anything to avoid being last.

I was far from last. 

I ran well, as well as I could anyway. My knees were OK but I got a cramp about a mile in so that threw a bit of a spanner in the works.

The Warrior Dash went like this:
Run for ages to separate the pack.
Climb over haybales.
Run for a bit.
Climb over cars and tyres on the ground.
Run some more.
Over the walls, under the fences times about eight.
Run, run, run.
Run through mud that stunk like sewerage and get muddy.
Climb 10 feet high wall.
Run, walk, gasp.
Balance over planks and run up rocky hill.
Slow jogging, walk for a bit.
Climb over a rope netting bridge, not high but long.
Run, run, walk.
Run up hill with ropes to help.
Run down the hill.
Run into the actual lake and jump or crawl over floating logs.
Run up the hill and again and walk for a bit.
Climb over really, really high cargo net wall.
Run for a while but then walk for a bit.
Leap over fire - twice  - two lots of fire.
Run.
Mud crawl under barb wire.
Run (stagger) to the finish line.
High five.
Grab bananas and water.
Take rad photos.
Jump into the freezing cold lake and attempt to get clean.

Smile and be proud that I did it. 


Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.

I wasn't too old.
I wasn't too slow. 
I wasn't in worse shape than most of the people. 
I didn't hold anyone back.
My knees are shit and they are absolutely killing me right now.
But hey, I wasn't last.

I did it.

I'm waiting for more photos to come from the Warrior Dash photogs. I'll post as soon as I get them.
To learn more about Warrior Dash  g
o to www.warriordash.com 




UPDATE:
Here are the photos that I bought from the Warrior Dash people:











Friday, April 1, 2011

tweeting the tales

Are you following @thetatamimat  on twitter? It's where I "Tell travel tales tweet by tweet. 140 characters at a time, for as long as it takes."

There are currently 63 people following the account. These people get tweets from @thetatamimat at random times during the day and sometimes at night. I'm currently telling a story called "There Are Two Kinds of Animals" from an experience I had in Nepal. Currently, as I post this blogpost, this story has 74 tweets, over 1800 words and has been going for almost a week. Enjoy and don't forget, there's more. 

Alka Resort Camp - Day 39 - March 7th, 03. Chitwan National Park, Nepal. (Started 3.27.11)

Imagine you’re in a jungle. You look around and you see leafy trees, you breathe in humid air and it’s green, right? Well, either jungles aren’t always like that or the words people use to describe natural places aren’t always the same. 
Chitwan was described to us as a "jungle" where we would go on a “Jungle Safari” but to me it looked more like the Australian bush - think dry and Sahara-like. One side of the river was lush and green and the other was dry and arid. It was perfect, as Chitwan was bi-polar in more ways than one.

We were woken at a time I considered almost inhuman, ate breakfast and then walked through the fog as the sun rose behind us, warming our backs and waking us up. It wasn’t a long walk to the river, and we weren’t the only ones making the trek there from the campsite. Eavesdropping into conversations provided glimpses into lives and accents from all over the world. Together we were about to be lead into the jungle by our personal guides - on a hunt to find the elusive Nepalese rhinoceros.

To get to the jungle, both leafy and arid versions, we had to cross a crocodile infested river and travel down stream. As an expert in swimming with fresh water crocodiles, I was of course perfectly ok with the idea of crocodile infested waters. The other travelers in the boat didn’t seem to be quite as confident. “C’mon. They're freshies! They just eat fish. You’ll be right.” I said to a woman sitting in front of me. She relaxed. I continued, "Just don't run your fingers in the water. They'll probably bite them off." The look of panic on her face amused me. Silly tourist. We all sat together in the canoe in silence, looking at the mist shrouding us from the sun, the view and the crocodiles and other creatures lurking beside us.

Our guide stood at the front of the canoe steering us across the water. His paddling was hypnotically calming and the situation was like something out from a book. It became almost unreal when, from out of the mist, an elephant appeared. It was wading waist high through the water with a man riding on his neck. It glanced left as we came closer and I looked the huge beast right in the eye as we passed. The elephant's eye reflected my own curiousity and caution. We shared a moment of recognition right there in the water. For me, in that gaze, a message was shared between us. It was a look of mutual respect and one I can close my eyes and remember as clearly now as the day it happened. Just incredible. I watched it disappear as the guide continued to row. 
We were in the canoe for about half an hour and during that time we spotted one Gharial crocodile. Infested waters? I think not. We moored  at a small jetty and we were motioned to exit to the mouth of the "jungle". I looked up and saw a Jeep and a man with a stick standing there. I wondered for a moment what the big stick was for. Bush whacking like I used to do as a kid?I quickly refocused as he started to talk.

"There are TWO kinds of animals: dangerous and not dangerous. Dangerous animals are tigers, rhinos and black bears." I added a silent oh my. He continued: "First, rhinos. If we see a rhino and we are near a tree we have to climb at least 6 feet up a tree. If there are no trees we we have to run, zigzag style, because rhinos have weak necks so they can only run fast, straight."
My eyes were now the size of saucers and all I could do was look at the tall trees in the distance. Trees that didn't appear to have branches sprouting out less than six feet from from the ground. I am about 5.4 when I when I stand straight, so I was going to be in trouble if I didn't zigzag fast enough.

He continued: "If a rhino is following us we have to drop our things: bag, water, cameras to confuse the rhino. His eyes are weak but his nose is strong." "His nose is really strong?" I said. "I'm sure it is with a freaking horn attached. It's going to smell me and impale me before I even spot him coming." I was beginning to wonder if this rhino hunt in Nepal was a good idea but I reminded myself it was all about the future story. 

"Now, tigers." TIGERS?! "If a tiger wants to attack us he can. He's the king of the jungle. There's nothing we can do. BUT we have two ideas: The first idea is to look the tiger in the eye, the second is to walk backwards." What? I was uncoordinated on the best of days so the idea of going in reverse with a tiger closing in on me was like a death sentence. I would fall and therefore die. Death by tiger. Great. He continued, "Only three kinds of tigers will attack you: mothers with young cubs who are afraid of us, old tigers who are too slow to kill other things, and tigers who have already killed humans and want to kill more. This is because human blood is salty, you know?" I nodded.

"Now, bears." Seriously?! "Bears we can try to fight with our sticks, but they are still dangerous. We should look them directly in the eye too....OK. Any questions?" By this stage I was thinking, forget the rhinos, let's just get back on the boat. Then I thought of the croc infested waters with one measly crocodile and that maybe these guides were part guides - part dreamers. Rhinos and tigers and bears - yeah, right! We looked around to make sure we were safe, looked at each other and I said, " No, no questions." The guide smiled and turned to walk off but I looked at his silhouette in front of me and blurted out, stopping him, "Actually, I do have a question!" He turned back around and looked at me curiously. "What?" he said. "Um". I pointed at his right hand. "Where do I get one of those? Where is my walking stick?" The guide grinned, motioned to the ground and said "Somewhere. It's waiting for you." I wrinkled my face as I was looking for a stick not a magical item. Just a stick. A stick to protect me from wild animals, and yes, to hit the ground as I walked like I was taught by my dad as a little girl to scare off snakes. Australia doesn't mess around when it comes to snakes so carrying a big stick when hiking was a must. Now I wasn't so sure the hitting the stick to the ground effect would be on a rhino, tiger or bear but maybe I could poke it in the eye and run really fast, zigzag style, to a tree I couldn't climb, after dropping everything I was holding and hope for the best. I found a stick. I was ready to go on the first stage of our safari. Everything seemed to have stages and levels and steps on this day. From the three kinds of dangerous animals to the different options of escape, this safari was like a real life Choose Your Own Adventure. We set off on foot for safari part one - walking version.


Chitwan was sold to us on its unique ability of showing the traveler equal levels of beauty and danger. We'd heard all about the danger and now it was time to experience the beauty. As mentioned, the first part of the park was dry and bushlike. I walked on the crunchy grass and hit the ground in time with my steps and looked around carefully. Grass, shrubs, trees, blue sky, and dirt. We walked away from the river, through the open field and into an amazing "more jungle than we'd seen so far" area. It was green and leafy and so different from what we we had already seen - almost like a whole new world. The green canopy enveloped me with waves of calmness, or that could have also been the stuff the guide was smoking. He showed us special plants, told us local legends and was on the lookout for wild animals that may attack. We walked through the jungle for three hours and finally reached the elephant sanctuary. In the entire time we hiked the only living creature we saw was definitely not terrifying - unless you were featured on a Maury episode for having an irrational fear. All we saw on this part of the rhino safari was one lousy domesticated chicken. Next up: Safari part two - riding on elephants version. 

The guide lead us to another part of the river where an elephant was waiting and swaying and watching us. It was wearing an ornate saddle and there was a man on his neck. Our guide motioned for us to get on the ramp next to the elephant and to climb on. I felt awful for the elephant but was relieved to see that the trainer wasn't cruel or mean. I climbed up and on and looked down I realized how tall the animal really was. Elephants are big. We set off on the next part of the safari swaying from left to right, looking carefully into the trees for the elusive rhino. We were just there to see one, nothing more, nothing less, and the chances of us doing so were slim. We weren't expecting to see one as so many travelers had been here before us and seen nothing. We were going to get lucky, I could feel it. First we we were going to get wet. Soaking wet. Picture this: an elephant, a wide river we had to cross, and a guide with a wicked sense of humor. The elephant had to be encouraged to enter the chilly water but once it was in, it decided to enjoy itself thoroughly. One trunk full of water later we were the soggy passengers aboard. As the elephant sprayed us, it trumpeted and I'm positive, laughed. We were absolutely soaking wet and I carefully checked the camera to make sure it wasn't drenched too. Luckily my swift reflexes had kicked in and I'd put the camera up my shirt and under my bra.  I know, I am very protective of my camera, and would have done anything to protect it. The camera was dry.

The river was finally crossed after a couple more drenchings from the elephant and more hearty laughing from its trainer. The other side looked the same as the side before but had more elephants with more tourists darting in and out of the trees. We headed in to find a rhino.


Want more? Of course you do! This is all I have tweeted so far, but it's not the end of the story. Make sure to follow @thetatamimat  on twitter to keep up. There's more to come. 

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